Treviso: “THE” town for Aperitivo

If there is one place where there are plenty of outdoors caffees that is Treviso, and Treviso area is the main producer of the famous Prosecco. 

I already provided an intro to Treviso with “Treviso, way off the beaten path….”, so we know that it is a “well-off” city, first because of its ties with Venice since the 1300 with many economic benefits; and in modern days by being home to Benetton, Sisley, Stefanel, Geox, and the famous appliance maker De’Longhi. And it shows!

PIAZZA DEI SIGNORI

The most important square in Treviso is framed by the Palazzo della Prefettura, the Palazzo dei Trecento and the Cal Maggiore.

Originally the Palazzo della Signoria of Treviso—which reminds a lot of Palazzo della Signoria in Florence—was about half the current one (called Palazzo of the Prefecture). The name “Piazza dei Signori” derives from the name “Palazzo della Signoria” not because it was dedicated to the more affluent classes (although we find the same name “Piazza Dei Signori” also in Vicenza and Padua).

It was built when the offices, which were located around the Palazzo dei Trecento, became insufficient to house the public administration.

Here—as expected there is also the “Gran Caffe” of the city, called “Signore & Signori,” ( “Ladies and Gentlemen” ) and made extremely famous in the late ’60s because of a comedy movie of the same name:

Everything changed from the city photographed by Pietro Germi 51 years ago. But what in some ways has never changed is that of Treviso joy of life as told in the movie, a movie that made the history of the city. “Ladies and Gentlemen” visually traced the most beautiful and evocative corners of the city and immortalized an Italian north-eastern way of life—now gone!

These caffees—there are actually two of them—are in a lucky position. Looking the afternoon sun the outdoors tables are comfortable almost year-round. There are porticos too, and they are well shaded when the sun is too strong.

LOGGIA DEI CAVALIERI

The Loggia dei Cavalieri, the only building of its kind in Europe, was built in the second part of 1200, when Andrea da Perugia was mayor of Treviso; it is a brick building with an irregular quadrilateral plan and a roof with four pitches in tiles.

In this building only the nobles met to participate, in the good season, in board games. The destination of use of the Loggia was not always the same over the centuries: the function to which it was appointed ended December 13, 1388, when the city was taken from Venice.

CA’ DEI CARRARESI

Most likely, Casa dei Carraresi (Carraresi’s Residence [Home]), at the end of the 14th century was called Osteria alla Croce.

Apparently an “Osteria alla Croce” was located inside today’s Casa dei Carraresi; it was therefore born as a structure that offered a public catering and Hostel service to travelers who came to Treviso also from Austria and Germany.

Today Ca’ Dei Carraresi is a museum which hosts numerous art shows. Such as 

  • Inge MorathLife. Photography (Inge Morath was the wife of Arthur Miller after Marilyn Monroe)
  • From Titian to Van Dyck: the face of the 500

Ca Dei Carraresi

Via Palestro, 33/35 in centro a Treviso. Tel: 0422 513150, Fax: 0422 513151
It looks like their page is in Italian only: www.casadeicarraresi.it

Ca Dei Carraresi was also lovingly restored and an effort was made to to bring back the original frescoes in some of the rooms. I could not help to notice a beautiful fresco of a young lady shooting an arrow to an intimidated Cupid. I kept wondering if that was because Cupid made a very poor choice of a lover for that young lady! She looks quite upset.

STROLLING TREVISO

Treviso offers beautiful views, old buildings, restaurants—and they all claim that only in Treviso you can taste the “real” Tiramisu. Treviso claims Tiramisu was invented in Treviso! There are also lots of shopping opportunities as the center town is lined by beautiful stores. Its center is mainly closed to traffic, hence walking about is very pleasant and more so because of the river and canals that runs thru it.

THE FOUNTAIN OF TITS

I can’t pass this one! 

The Fontana Delle Tette is an old fountain, which under the rule of the Venetian Republic pours white and red wine during special celebrations. The name translates into English as “The Fountain of Tits“. It features a topless woman squeezing her breasts and water (representing breast milk) coming out of her nipples.

The Fontana Delle Tette was built in 1559 on the orders of Alvise Da Ponte, at the time mayor of the Republic of Venice as a result of a severe drought that struck the city of Treviso and the surrounding countryside. Originally the statue was placed inside the Praetorian Palace, in via Calmaggiore. Every year of the autumn of the Serenissima Republic of Venice, in honor of every new Podesta, red wine flowed from the nipple of one breast, and white wine from nipple of the other breast, and all citizens could drink the wine for free for three days.

 

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